THE ULTIMATE IRELAND TRAVEL GUIDE

My Ireland travel guide is long, but worth it once you get to the end! 🙂 Ireland has been high on my bucket list for quite a long time and I finally had the perfect opportunity to visit for my husband’s 29th birthday! He has some Irish heritage and has always wanted to visit so this was a special trip that we will remember for years to come.

Each town in Ireland offered us something new whether it was a little hide away pub with live music or a restaurant with surprisingly great food. We were fortunate to visit around Christmas time so every street corner was decorated and was made to look like a winter wonderland. In total, we spent five days in Ireland (two days in Dublin, one in Waterford, one in Killarney and one in Galway) and would highly recommend spending more time along the southern coast if you have time.

One of the hardest decisions I had to make before I made this Ireland travel guide was choosing which towns we would make day trips and which ones we would stay overnight in. We ultimately chose four towns to stay the night and others we used as day trips. If you have 7 days or even two weeks you can stretch out your Ireland travel to Cork, Dingle and other coastal towns. To find the best deals on rental cars, use the rentalcars.com search engine. It’s what I use and I always find the best deal.

Disclosure: Some of these links are affiliate links, which means when you purchase something using these links, I may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. However, I link these companies because I have used them or truly recommend them based on their quality and the experience I had.

ireland travel restrictions

As of December 3, 2021, Ireland has issued new travel restrictions in place. Those coming from the United States and other countries must show proof of a negative COVID-19 test prior to entering. The time and type of test allowed varies:

+ if you are fully vaccinated or can show proof you have fully recovered from COVID-19, you have 72 hours upon arrival to show proof of a negative a PCR test or 48 hours for a negative antigen result.
+ if you are not fully vaccinated, your only option is to show proof of a negative PCR test taken within 72 hour prior to arrival. You cannot take an antigen test.

If you do not show proof of a negative test, you will undergo a mandatory quarantine. To enter Ireland, you also must also fill out Ireland’s passenger locator form prior to arriving in the country. It will issue you a QR code that you’ll present before boarding the plane. Ireland’s travel requirements are constantly changing so stay up to date by visiting the Irish Embassy website.

DAY 1 & 2: DUBLIN, IRELAND

We started our Ireland travel in Dublin. It’s the perfect spot for a few reasons. This is most likely where you’ll be flying into and it’s the busiest city you’ll come across on your Ireland road trip so it’s a great city to start your journey. Dublin was absolutely one of my favorite stops in Ireland. Yes, it’s the most touristy and the busiest, but this also means there is so much to see and do and it’s full of history. I personally love a big city and Dublin hits the mark for me. From the history to the many, many, many pubs — you won’t be disappointed.

+ HA’PENNY BRIDGE & River Liffey

The infamous Ha’Penny bridge is a historical landmark in Dublin. It was the first pedestrian bridge to cross the Liffey and it’s one of the easiest landmarks to spot. This is one of the first attractions we saw in Dublin and it gives such a great look over the city and the river.

+ TEMPLE BAR & TEMPLE BAR DISTRICT

Temple Bar. What more can I say? More than likely if you’ve heard anything about Dublin then you’ve heard of Temple Bar. We happened to visit right before Christmas so the exterior of the bar was absolutely beautiful as well as the inside — all decked out for the holiday. I will say, although it is definitely a tourist destination, the temple bar was one of my favorites in Dublin. There is live music nearly every day and the bar is absolutely huge. You’ll definitely see a younger crowd here making it one of the loudest bars in the neighborhood and not to mention, the line typically wraps around the door. We actually got lucky getting in here without waiting in line by coming right after lunch time. It’s all about timing, folks.

The area surrounding this bar is known as the temple bar district. There is a bar on literally every corner and of course, we hopped in as many as we could! Our favorites are listed below. Note, while this is a touristy area, we met a few locals that still love this it for a night out. Both of the local’s favorites (and ours!) was Quay’s.

+ DUBLIN CASTLE TOUR

If you’re into history at all, then visiting Dublin Castle will be on the top of your list. This definitely will not be the only castle you see on your Ireland travels but this will be your first and it’s one of the best. You can purchase free tickets in advance here or at the door. It’s worth touring the castle for a better understanding of the people who have walked through those same halls. And, don’t forget to tour the Castle’s gardens after.

+ MOLLY MALONE & St. andrew’s church

Just a quick stop in the center of Dublin’s Georgian Quarter sits the Molly Malone statue. What’s funny is no one really knows if Molly was a real person, but she has become synonymous with Dublin due to the famous Irish song Cockles and Mussels which references Molly Malone. And sitting right behind the statue, you’ll find St. Andrew’s Church.

+ OLD LIBRARY & BOOK OF KELLS

Trinity College is a liberal arts college in the heart of Dublin, but that’s not why you’re visiting. Although the college is beautiful, the Book of Kells and the Old Library is what you’ll want to see on your visit. And wow, I’m still not over it. The Old Library is a historic library that holds not only the Book of Kells but also the famous Boru harp which is Ireland’s symbol.

On your tour, you can purchase tickets here, you’ll first see the Book of Kells. If you aren’t familiar with this book, it’s argued as one of the most famous artifacts on display in Dublin (with no photos allowed of course). But most importantly, it’s a transcription of the original four Gospels. The one on display in Dublin dates back to the year 800. After the Book of Kells, you’ll be guided into the Old Library where the harp is displayed.

+ St. Stephen’s Green

St. Stephen’s is a great area for a morning run or a place to enjoy your breakfast. The beautiful park sits right by Trinity College making it an easy stop on your way to the Old Library.

+ grafton street shopping

For some of the best shopping in Dublin, head to Grafton Street. Not only is there some great shops in the area, but it also has some of the best Christmas decorations making it the perfect location to do some window shopping and strolling if you are in town for this time of year.

+ GUINNESS BREWERY TOUR

Guinness is like holy water in Ireland. You’ll find it everywhere and while I never drink it back home, when in Rome! One of the coolest tours you can do in Dublin in general is definitely the Guinness tour. You’ll go through 5 floors starting at the history of the brewery to the learning how to make the perfect Guinness pour. Be sure to head up to the rooftop, Gravity bar, afterwards for one last Guinness and a great view of Dublin.

+ CHRISTCHURCH CATHEDRAL

Since the Guinness brewery is a bit outside the city center, you can pass by Christchurch Cathedral on your way. This church is actually the former heart of Medieval Dublin and was a Viking church. It’s also one of Dublin’s oldest buildings dating back to 1030. On your way to the Cathedral, be sure to stop at Queen of Tarts for a pastry to go.

+ ST. PATRICK’S CATHEDRAL

Another historical landmark in Dublin is the St. Patrick’s Cathedral built in 1191. It’s the national cathedral of the Church of Ireland and truly is breathtaking. Right outside the cathedral is St. Patricks park where you can take in the beauty and enjoy a nice afternoon people watching.

DUBLIN RESTAURANTS & PUBS

Ireland surprised me with the food we ate while there! I wasn’t expecting too much out of the typical stereotypical food associated with Ireland like potatoes, Irish breakfasts and corned beef but we loved everywhere we ate and would recommend the restaurants and pubs below in Dublin.

+ STAG’S HEAD: LUNCH SPOT FOR DRINKS AND FISH AND CHIPS.

+ QUEEN OF TARTS: the cutest pastry AND BREAKFAST SPOT.

+ TEMPLE BAR: THE MOST iconic and touristy BAR IN DUBLIN BUT A MUST VISIT.

+ FADE STREET SOCIAL: GO FOR AN UPSCALE DINNER IN DUBLIN.

+ HERB STREET: best for a FULL IRISH BREAKFAST.

+ O’DONOGUE’S: cozy LOCAL PUB OUTSIDE OF THE TEMPLE BAR DISTRICT.

+ 37 DAWSON STREET: classic COCKTAIL BAR.

+ THE QUAY’S: the best BAR IN TEMPLE DISTRICT WITH LIVE MUSIC.

+ BLIND PIG: SPEAKEASY WITH RESERVATIONS NEEDED.

DAY 3: KILKENNY & WATERFORD, IRELAND

After spending two days in Dublin, we headed out on our road trip through Ireland by stopping in Kilkenny on the way and making our way to Waterford for the night. The further you get from Dublin, the quainter the towns get which we loved. Each town has its own unique setting and charm so enjoy each second in these sleepy towns.

+ KILKENNY CASTLE

On your way from Dublin to Kilkenny Castle is about an hour and a half drive. For the most part you’ll be on a highway (motorway), but keep in mind as you get closer to the smaller towns you’ll drive along narrow roads. Kilkenny Castle is first on your list for the day and you can purchase free tickets here. The castle used to house the Butler family and is known as one of the best castles in Ireland.

+ ROCK OF CASHEL

Before heading to Waterford for the rest of the day, go a bit out of your way to visit the Rock of Cashel. Many people leave this site out of their itinerary, but it’s one that I’m glad we visited. The Rock of Cashel is also known as St. Patrick’s Rock has very few remnants of the original castle in place as it’s practically in ruins now but it used to house the kings of Munster. You can purchase free tickets here.

+ VIKING TRIANGLE

From the Rock of Cashel to Waterford is about another hour and a half ride. Once you’re in Waterford, you’ll get to experience more of the Medieval and crystal history the town is known for. One of the most interesting things you can do in Waterford is walk the Viking Triangle which consists of Reginald’s Tower, Medieval Museum and the Bishop’s Palace Museum.

Waterford is the type of town where you can relax, roam the streets and lazily pop into shops and pubs along the way. It’s a great stop for your Ireland travels.

restaurants & BARS IN WATERFORD

+ GEOFF’S: TRADITIONAL IRISH PUB WITH GREAT FOOD.

+ GINGERMAN: COZY LUNCH SPOT.

+ Tully’s: PUB WHERE THE LOCALS GO.

+ the reg: GREAT FOR A NIGHT OUT WITH FRIENDS.

+ MCLEARY’S: STEAK AND SEAFOOD SPOT FOR LUNCH OR DINNER.

+ emiliano’s: ITALIAN RESTAURANT FOR A YUMMY DINNER.

day 4: cork, kenmare & killarney

+ blarney castle & gardens

Kissing the Blarney Castle when traveling through Ireland is just a right of passage. It’s said by kissing this stone, you’ll be honored with the gift of gab. You simply cannot travel to Ireland and not kiss the Blarney Stone! The castle itself is absolutely beautiful and dates back to 1200. You can purchase tickets here which also gives you access to the gardens.

Pro tip, get there early! I had heard horror stories of those waiting in line to kiss this stone for 2-3 hours. We got there right when it opened and were the first ones to kiss the stone that day. On your way up, you’ll climb a very narrow staircase that isn’t for those who are claustrophobic. You’ll get to learn more about the history of the castle while you stroll up and at the top you get a great view of the grounds. Be sure to stop at the Blarney House and gardens afterward.

+ Kenmare

After Blarney Castle, you can do part of or all of the Ring of Kerry. It’s similar to Maui’s Road to Hana. This scenic route follows a narrow and windy road full of many stops along the way. We chose to do half of the Ring of Kerry and our first stop was Kenmare. It’s a cute little town that looks exactly like a quaint Ireland village you would picture. We stopped here for lunch before heading out on the rest of the road trip.

+ moll’s gap

The next stop on the Ring of Kerry is Moll’s Gap. This stop gives a great mountain top view with a cafe nearby for a quick cup of coffee or lunch. This gap in the mountains gets its name from Moll Kissane who owned a secret Ireland pub known for her Poitin (Irish hard liquor).

+ ladies view

From Moll’s Gap to Ladies View, it’s a short drive down the road and you’ll get an incredible panoramic view of Killarney’s lakes. Ladies View is actually named after Queen Victoria who was charmed by the view so much that she asked the carriage to stop so her and her “ladies” could take in the view.

+ new foundland bay

While Ladies View gets all the credit for an incredible view, going further down the road, you’ll come across an even better view that isn’t on the typical Ring of Kerry stops. Just under a 5 minute drive from Ladies View, you’ll find an eye-level view of the lakes that is better than Ladies View in my opinion.

+ muckross house & gardens

A bit further down the road, you’ll run into Killarney National park. It’s free to enter the park and in there, you can see Muckross House and Gardens, Torc Waterfall and Ross castle. If you only have time for one then I recommend seeing Muckross. You can also choose to tour the inside of the house, but it’s only available by guided tour which is about 9 Euro’s per person.

+ shopping

After visiting the Killarney National Park, you can choose to do one last stop on the Ring of Kerry which I wish we had time for — Gap of Dunloe. You’ll pass through the town of Killarney and it’s about a half hour drive from Muckross House. We wanted a bit more time to explore Killarney and I’m so glad we did. The town was so lit up with Christmas decor and lights and it was a bit more lively than Waterford. There was so many shops, cafes and pubs to pop into. I loved exploring their lit up side streets.

killarney pubs & restaurants

+ murphy browne’s: cute pub with nooks everywhere

+ john m reidy’s: hardware store turned pub

+ murphy’s bar: most famous pub in killarney

+ courtney’s pub: one of the oldest pubs in killarney

+ kate kearney’s: the most popular pub in killarney

+ O’connor’s: great for live music.

day 5: galway

You won’t be disappointed with the town of Galway Ireland. You won’t find an Ireland travel guide that doesn’t at least mention the city largely due to the size and nightlife of the city. It was truly one of my favorites and the best way to end our time in Ireland.

+ CLIFFS OF MOHER

On your way to Galway, be sure to stop at the Cliffs of Moher. This landmark was super high on my Ireland bucket list and it did not disappoint. It’s hard to put into words how beautiful this view is. You’ll need to pay 6 euro per person for parking and from there you’ll walk a bit to get the best view of the cliffs. It’s truly breathtaking. You may recognize the cliffs from movies like Harry Potter and the Half Blood Prince (ugh!!), the Princess Bride and Leap Year.

+ LATIN QUARTER

From Killarney to Galway (with the stop at Cliffs of Moher), it will easily be your longest drive. If you do have more time, I recommend stopping in the town of Dingle. My friend who stayed in Ireland for a few months loved this coastal town and it comes highly recommended from others who have visited. When you travel through this part of Ireland, you’ll pass through Limerick and Shannon if you want to stop along the way.

Once you’re in Galway, which is by far one of my favorite towns in Ireland, you can stroll through the Latin Quarter. Here, you’ll find Galways best shops, pubs and restaurants.

+ CHARLIE BYRNE’S BOOKS

One of the best and most unique shops to stop in is Charlie Byrne’s books. It’s actually considered a “cultural reference point” for not only tourists but by those who live in Galway.

+ SPANISH ARCH

The Spanish Arch is another landmark within Galway and a quick stop within the Latin Quarter. While it wasn’t build by Spaniards, it was named the Spanish Arch because of its ties back to the merchant trade with Spain.

+ shopping

Some of the best shopping I found on my Ireland travel was in Galway. There was so many shops (big and small) to pop into and each has it’s own charm. You’ll also find a pub on nearly every street corner. It’s a smaller version of Dublin with a local vibe.

galway pubs & restaurants

+ au pucan: busy LOCAL pub with live music almost every night

+ igh Neachtain: loved by locals and tourists

+ Dublin: great beer garden

+ Waterford: good for afternoon drinks

+ killarney: outdoor patio and live music every night

+ galway: best pub for traditional irish music

+ crane bar: best pub for traditional irish music

IRELAND HOTELS

Below are the hotels we stayed at in each part of our trip and I highly recommend each one! From the service to the location, you can’t go wrong with these picks.

+ Dublin: zanzibar locke

+ Waterford: fitzwilton hotel

+ killarney: Killarney plaza Hotel & spa

+ galway: GalmoNt Hotel & Spa

Our Ireland travels can definitely be labeled as one of my favorite trips — I know I know, I say that about every trip but this was one of the best. I got to see another new country that made me appreciate this world that much more. I hope you enjoy this beautiful country as much as my husband and I did and find this Ireland travel guide helpful on your travels. As always, reach out to me on Instagram if you have any questions on Ireland or other travels!

As a reminder, as of Dec. 6,, anyone re-entering the United States, regardless of which country you’re visiting, you must receive a negative COVID-19 at least 24 hours in advance of arrival. We packed our own COVID travel tests, which made traveling super seamless. You can check out my post on that here.

happy travels, liz stanford

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