Vacation on the Amalfi Coast
THE ULTIMATE AMALFI COAST VACATION
For my Spend It Like Stanford travel itinerary (in spreadsheet format), click here.
A vacation on the Amalfi Coast is truly what dreams are made of. After pining over this vacation spot for years, researching it for countless hours and viewing as many pictures as I could find, I can 100% confirm this Italian coastline is just as picturesque as you’d imagine. What was supposed to be our one year anniversary trip to the Amalfi Coast turned into our two year anniversary trip thanks to COVID, but nonetheless Amalfi Coast did not disappoint and proved to be worth the wait. Each town on the Amalfi Coast offers its own twist on the Italian vacation and I fell in love with each one. This Amalfi Coast itinerary includes Positano, Ravello and Capri, which is not technically a part of the Amalfi Coast. You’ll find the prettiest views and beaches in Positano, shopping a plenty in Capri and a peaceful, relaxing vibe in Ravello.
In total, we spent five days on the Amalfi Coast and would highly recommend more if you have time. After the Amalfi Coast, we headed straight to Venice, Italy. If you’re looking for a guide to the perfect little city on water, you can view it here.
Disclosure: Some of these links are affiliate links, which means when you purchase something using these links, I may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. However, I link these companies because I have used them or truly recommend them based on their quality and the experience I had.
italy travel restrictions
As of August 2021, Italy had a few travel restrictions in place. Those coming from countries on Italy’s green list could enter if you showed proof of at least one of the following:
+ negative COVID-19 test taken 72 hours prior to departure
+ full vaccination received at least 2 weeks from your last shot
+ or, proof of COVID-19 antibodies
To enter, you also must fill out Italy’s passenger locator form prior to arriving in the country. It will issue you a QR code that you’ll present before boarding the plane. As of September 2021, Italy has put America on the amber list. However, those who have been fully vaccinated (at least two weeks prior to travel) and provide a negative COVID-19 test are still allowed to travel as long as they can show full proof of vaccination at least 2 weeks prior to travel. Italy’s travel requirements are constantly changing so stay up to date by visiting the U.S. Embassy website.
ROME TO THE AMALFI COAST
I’ll admit, getting to the Amalfi Coast isn’t exactly easy. There’s not a direct flight to any of the towns along the coast but there are still quite a few ways you can get there. If you aren’t going to any Italian cities before the Amalfi Coast, your best bet will be flying into Naples. We headed to Rome first so this was our starting point before leaving to the Amalfi Coast. If you are traveling from Rome as we did, you can take the train from Rome into Naples and from there you’ll drive to the Amalfi Coast.
Taking the train from Rome to the Amalfi Coast is super easy and one of the quickest ways to get to the coast. We took the first train leaving in the morning at 7 AM and it was just under an hour ride. You can purchase tickets in advance here. You’ll be given a QR code that you’ll need to show after boarding the train. If you are traveling with big luggage like we were, there is a spot to stow it at the back of the train.
Once the train arrives in Naples, you have a few options to get to the Amalfi Coast. You can take the Naples ferry to Positano (you’ll need to get on two ferries), you can book a private transfer, rent a car or you can take the bus in. We chose to book a private transfer since it was the most convenient and one of the fastest ways in. You can book your transfer here. If you are on a budget then the cheaper alternative is the ferry or the bus option which will be the longest alternative.
AMALFI COAST towns
One of the hardest decisions I had to make about our Amalfi Coast vacation was which towns to stay in and visit! We ultimately chose Positano as our home base because I’m absolutely obsessed with the cliffside views and it has some of the best restaurants and nightlife so it’s really now wonder why we chose it.
Many people choose to stay in Sorrento, which is technically not a part of the Amalfi Coast but it’s close enough to most of the other towns. It is about a 30 minute drive from the first town on the Amalfi Coast which is Positano. Many people also choose to stay in Amalfi, which the coast is named after. Other beautiful stops on the coast are Atrani, Minori and of course, Ravello. We spent one day in Ravello, Italy and you can check out our time spent there below.
STAYING IN POSITANO
Ahhh Positano, Italy. I think I could talk about this place forever. Positano offers some of the best cliffside views, restaurants, and things to do on the Amalfi Coast. We chose to base our time there on the Amalfi Coast for all those reasons, plus it was a great base for getting to Capri and has some of the best beaches on the coast which we spent plenty of time at. It also is a great town to stay in if you plan on doing day trips to other coastal towns.
While in Positano, we stayed at Villa Gabrisa and I can’t recommend it enough. Our suite had it’s own balcony with the most gorgeous view of the city and the prettiest cliffside views. You can choose to have breakfast every morning at their restaurant or order ahead and have it delivered to your room so you can enjoy the view with a cappuccino. They also offer rooms with a hot tub and walk out terrace. Every person we interacted with was so lovely and they even helped us get some beach reservations, which are tough to make at some of the best Italian beach clubs. It was a 10/10 experience and would highly recommend Villa Gabrisa for anyone looking to stay in Positano! For a quick look at available hotels in Positano, use the search below.
things to do in Positano
While you’re staying in Positano, there will be so much to do. From the beaches, to the boutique shopping (they’re famous for their handmade sandals!), to the water activities and not to mention taking in the best part of their culture — the food! Below I’ve listed everything we did while in Positano so you can make the most of your vacation on the Amalfi Coast.
+ EXPLORE POSITANO
Positano has all the charm you would expect. The only downfall? All of the steps. So if you are staying at the the top of the cliffside, which we did then getting down and back up is quite a days worth of walking up and down steps. The city center of Positano is easy to identify by their main church: Church of Santa Maria Assunta. If you follow the steps to the church that is where you’ll find all the shopping and most of the main restaurants. It’s important to note that this part of Positano is closed off to cars so only pedestrians can get to it.
Be sure to check out all the little shops lining the main city center and get yourself some handmade sandals while you’re there!
+ LA SCOGLIERA BEACH CLUB
There are quite a few beach clubs in and around Positano. The main beach in Positano is called Spiaggia Grande. It’s a public beach so it gets real crowded real quick. It’s almost overwhelming how many people pack up this beach. After researching about it ahead of time, I found out about La Scogliera beach club. They share the Spiagga Grande beach but they are tucked away from all the chaos. You’ll pay more for a chair here, but it also comes with your own bar service, a table and umbrella. Plus, it comes with the best beach view minus all of the people who pack Spiagga Grande. You can and should book your chairs in advance here.
+ one fire beach club
If there is one beach club you can’t miss while vacationing on the Amalfi Coast, it’s One Fire Beach Club. You’ll definitely need to book a reservation here in advance. Unfortunately I had a hard time getting a hold of them so we had our hotel call for us and it worked out great. The reservation lasts all day and the closer to the water you want to be, the more expensive the chair. To get there, you can choose to drive yourself, but the easiest way is by their boat from the Positano port. One Fire Beach is technically in Praiano so you’ll load at the port and you’ll be able to take the shuttle back as well.
Be sure to stay for melon time at 4:30. It’s what the beach club is known for and you won’t want to miss it. And, while One Fire is technically a beach club, you won’t actually find a soft and sandy beach. It’s perched up on the cliff, but their ladder makes it super easy to get in and out of the water. Plus they have floats in the water for anyone who wants to soak up the sun. And, if you’re hungry be sure to order from their menu. All in all, One Fire is one of my favorite beach clubs I’ve visited. From the music to the drinks to melon time … you won’t be disappointed.
+ DA ADOLFO
Another beach club that I didn’t have time for, but would’ve loved to have visited is Da Adolfo. They also rarely answer their phone so getting a reservation takes some dedication, but if you do get one make sure to stay for their food! Similar to One Fire, you can get there by taking their free water taxi from the port.
capri by boat
If you’re staying more than a day in Positano or Sorrento on your Amalfi Coast vacation then you can’t miss visiting Capri, Italy! Some even choose to spend a few nights here as it’s well known for it’s world-class shopping and it’s definitely a place to see and be seen. Many celebrities park their yachts in the waters near Capri.
We chartered a private boat for just us two using Restart Boat and our experience was great. Seeing this part of Italy from the water was unforgettable. You not only get an amazing view of the Amalfi Coast, but seeing the rock formations around Capri was breathtaking. Our skipper took us to a few swimming areas, the blue grotto, green grotto (which we swam through!), and we were able to spend some time in Capri eating and shopping.
If you’re just looking to spend a day in Capri then you can take the ferry there and back. The ferry leaves 3 times a day and is about 20 euros. You can purchase tickets directly at the port.
POSITANO RESTAURANTS
If you know me at all then you know I’m a sucker for Italian food. Pizza, pasta, bread! I’m in heaven when I step into Italy and Positano restaurants are no joke when it comes to their authentic Italian food. Another side note about food on the Amalfi Coast is you will find a lot of lemon dishes. Lemon is king on the Amalfi Coast. You’ll see lemon trees everywhere and they find a way to incorporate it in everything. I listed below all of the restaurants we visited and each one had such an authentic vibe or outrageous view that I would recommend them all.
+ Zass at IL SAN PIETRO DI POSITANO: for a special occasson.
+ DA VINCEZNO: A CLASSIC ITALIAN RESTAURANT THAT WON’T DISAPPOINT.
+ ALDO’S AT LE SIRENUSE: CAN’T BEAT THE VIEW AND FOOD COMBO.
+ LA TAGLIATTA: A COME HUNGRY AND DON’T MISS RESTAURANT.
+ CHEZ BLACK: INFAMOUS BEACH-SIDE RESTAURANT.
+ CAPRICCI: SOME OF THE BEST PIZZA IN POSITANO.
+ CASA E BOTTEGA: A HEALTHY AND LIGHtER ALTERNATIVE
+ CAFE POSITANO: THE BEST VIEW TO ENJOY A CAPPUCINO
+ Covo Dei Saraceni: frozen lemon sorbet in a lemon. that’s all you need to know.
POSITANO BARS
I love catching a pre-dinner cocktail, but doing so in Italy is a whole different ball game. They are known for their aperitivo which are pretty much pre-dinner drinks that get your belly ready for a four-course Italian meal. And in Positano, if you are looking for drinks with a view there is one bar in particular that will be calling your name — Franco’s Bar.
Restaurants like Aldo’s and Zass expect you to enjoy a drink before eating so they will bring out appetizers while you enjoy a drink and the view. In these cases, hitting up the bar before isn’t needed. And, if you go to Zass you for sure do not want to pass up appetizer time. The view is incredible.
+ FRANCO’S BAR
As I mentioned earlier, Franco’s is the place to be in Positano for a drink. Your Amalfi Coast vacation isn’t complete without at least one drink here. The bar is a part of the famous Le Sirenuse Hotel, which according to the local’s, American’s are obsessed with. It’s definitely true, but I think the locals love Franco’s just as must. They have some of the best drinks and you truly cannot beat the view of the cliffside coast. We loved it so much we went back the next night.
One thing to note about Franco’s is they don’t take reservations so to get around this either come early when they open at 6 PM or be willing to wait in line especially if you have a large group because it’s actually a pretty small bar.
+ FLY BAR/MUSIC ON THE ROCKS
Sky bar is a lounge above Music on the Rocks. They offer a great view and good drinks, too. I mention Music on the Rocks because prior to COVID, this is one of the only clubs in Positano where live music is played. Most people head here after dinner for a fun time, but it was unfortunately closed due to COVID at the time.
ravello, italy
After spending a few days in Positano, we headed to another cute little town along the Amalfi Coast called Ravello. I quickly fell in love with this charming town. It was much more quiet and and it was a nice change of pace from the busy streets of Positano. Our hotel was able to hire us a car to take us from Positano to Ravello. If you don’t have a rental of your own, this was such an easy process for us but there is also a bus that can take people from Positano to any city along the coast.
where to stay in RAVELLO, ITALY
There are plenty of villas and hotels to choose from in Ravello, Italy. One of the most famous hotels is Belmond Hotel. We chose to stay at the Villa Piedimonte in Ravello, Italy and was by far one of my favorite stays in Italy. They were so accommodating and the rooms were top of the line. Our room had a terrace overlooking the gorgeous town and with a view like that, it was hard to want to even leave the hotel. Plus, their pool overlooking the cliffside was just as dreamy. The villa was a short walk into the center of Ravello, but for those who didn’t want to walk, they offered a shuttle to make your stay as seamless as possible. 10/10 recommend a stay at Villa Piedimonte.
what TO DO IN RAVELLO, ITALY
Ravello is more known for its history, music and art. A lot of people pass up this town on their Amalfi Coast vacation because it’s so much higher up than other towns right off the coast, but It’s one you won’t want to miss. It’s like a little hidden gem on the coast with some of the best views due to its higher elevation. Not to mention, it has some of the best food, too.
+ villa cimbrone and villa rufolo
When you visit Ravello, Italy be sure to visit the famous Villa’s. There is Villa Cimbrone and Villa Rufolo dating back to the 11th and 13th century respectively.
Both are rich in history and you’ll get incredible views at each. If you have time, try to time up your visit to Villa Cimbrone before dinner for a gorgeous sunset view.
+ shopping
You also won’t want to miss roaming Ravello’s city streets. This town is where I did most of my shopping. They had so many art and pottery shops that I fell in love with. I could have spent the whole day just going in and out of these shops. Be sure to head to Ceramiche d’Arte Carmela. That is where we found the perfect presents for our mothers. Plus, most of the shops will ship your purchases for you if they can’t fit it in your suitcase.
+ walk along PIAZZA Vescovado
Piazza Vescovado is the main square in Ravello. Here you’ll find Villa Rufolo directly across from the square and plenty of cafe’s lining it. If you keep walking, you’ll run into one of the best views from the square.
restaurants IN RAVELLO, ITALY
If you’re looking for a place to eat in Ravello then look no further than Cumpa Cosmio. It used to be a celeb hot spot even claiming the likes of Jackie Kennedy. But, that’s not even the best part. The food will get you to stay. This is one of the most authentic Italian meals we ate in Italy. The owner and chef, Netta, is the sweetest little Italian lady who even came out to greet everyone in the restaurant. I can’t recommend this place enough.
Other restaurant options in Ravello are L’Antica Cartiera and Belvedere at the infamous Belmond hotel.
I hope your Amalfi Coast vacation is just as magical and charming as ours was. I can’t wait to plan another trip there soon. If you’re looking for some other Italy wanderlust or travel guides, check out my Venice travel guide. As always, I am more than happy to help out with any questions you have. Just drop me a note below or reach out via Instagram.
As a reminder, anyone re-entering the United States, regardless of which country you’re visiting, you must receive a negative COVID-19 at least 72 hours in advance of arrival. We packed our own COVID travel tests, which made traveling super seamless. You can check out my post on that here.